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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.